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New Caledonia

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Reviewed By: Lorraine
Travel Date:
We have just returned from New Caledonia on a 14 day self-drive tour....

Our holiday began, of course, in Noumea. We had decided to travel the entire island and pre-booked accommodation at the old Club Med, Heingheine (north of Noumea 1/2 way on the east side of the island), and Malabou Beach Resort, Malabou (north of Noumea, at the top of the west side of the island). Travelling was my husband, myself, and our two daughters aged 10 & 11. We hired a car when we got to Noumea. There are plenty of hire companies and we chose Visa, who spoke some English. We chose a small 4 door manual hatch at about AUD$50 per day, about half the price of Avis and Hertz. In exchange for the cheap price the excess was AUD$1500. We also were able to drive up to 150km per day included. The car was invaluable and worth every penny.

We chose NOT to stay in the big advertised resorts, but instead stayed at Kuendu Beach Resort about 5 mins drive from town. Our bungalow was comfortable, and the girls had a loft bedroom in a sort of traditional fale. We also had our own room, and lounge and self-catering kitchen. This was excellent because everything is expensive in New Caledonia, and we missed the Aussie meals. We had one meal and McDonalds. The Happy meal was $8.50, and a Big Mac Meal (for dad) was $14. A coffee was $2 at McDonalds. Elsewhere a can of soft drink is around AUD$5. A favourite with the kids was a 'sandwhich' which was a whole breadstick (enough for 2 people) filled with either chicken 'poulet' or ham 'jambon' and lettuce, tomato and cheese and butter. It cost around AUD$10 and was found to be about the cheapest 'eat-out' meal one could get. One night we had 2 pizzas, 2 pasta dishes, 1/2 bottle of wine, 2 soft drinks and a modest little italian cafe and it cost AUD$90. Another night we ate at an upmarket restaurant and it cost us AUD$280, and we only had 2 courses. The buffet at Le Meridian is AUD$65 per person and if you want lobster in the deal the cost becomes AUD$90, not including any drinks. The best alternative with children is to eat at home where possible. The best place to eat is the local market. A 'cafe au lait' is AUD$3 and is a large bowl 1/2 filled with hot coffee and 1/2 filled with milk (it was the cheapest and best coffe in town). DO GET A LONELY PLANET GUIDE as it could save you hundreds of dollars. By the way, the trip to 'Amadee Islet'. Book it at Anse Varte beach when you are there as you get 'Pay for an adult and take a child free', and that will save you about AUD$200.

As for the airport that is about 45min away from town, it will cost about AUD$130 by taxi to Noumea, and it is cheaper to phone Visa prior to leaving Aus. and organise a hire car for about $60 for the day. Otherwise there are buses (check your lonely planet guide).

Kuendu Beach Resort was great. They have waterslides that were a hit with the kids, and free to the guest of the hotel. Only open on Wednesday/Sat/Sun though, and fully supervised. The food at the Beach Snack place was good and reasonably priced. The DiveMaster, Annabella, is Australian and she dropped us off at 'Signal Island' on her way to a reef dive. It cost us AUD$110 and was worth every penny. She supplied us with good snorkelling gear and well fitting wetsuits. We only had to go 50m from the beach in water between 5-10 feet deep, and the buoyant wetsuits allowed all 4 of us to swim/float around for 2 hours. Our daughters saw 'nemo' and 'Gill', and a range of other tropical fish of all shapes and sizes. They said this was the highlight of our trip, apart from the Banana Split they had at the pizza cafe.

As for the rest of this island, it is a must see. The east coast up near Heingheine is more traditianally goverened by the indigenous Kanaks and has a whole different atmosphere. The coast is rugged and ever-changing and there is no comparing it to the western southern side of the Island. There is also less tourists and so you have to rely more on using French. This proved no problem for the children who found that laughter, and fun is a universal language. We were amazed at how well they played with the French children even though neither could understand the other, in language.

For us, we hope our next visit to New Caledonia will be aboard our family yacht, which is currently restricted to sailing on the bay, due to our experience level. Well Au re Voir and Bon Voyage to all those travelling to this beautiful place, and remember before you go: BUY a Lonely Planet Guide, (oh, and Insect Repellant is also a must).


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